Visiting Northern Spain had been a dream of ours for a long time- and in fact, is what inspired us to start traveling the world in the first place. It was a part of the world that intrigued us in more ways the one: natural beauty, food, people, culture – just to name a few. The trick was figuring out how to do everything we wanted – on a budget!
Keep reading to learn where to go, what to see, and which food to eat without breaking the bank!
Santander
RAIN! RAIN! RAIN!!!
We arrived in Santander on November 1st and we didn’t have more than three consecutive hours of sunshine until November 19th.
It was wet.
However, we did manage to get out and enjoy Santander, especially once the weather lifted.
And we loved it! Here’s the skinny:
Where We Stayed
Airbnb is a fun place to hunt for deals. Sometimes you can get a better deal on weekdays vs. weekends and other times a weekly discount can wow you. For us, it was a monthly rate that knocked our socks off.
To learn more Airbnb tricks – Check this out! Top 5 Airbnb Tips and Hacks – Webisode 3!
We found a MONTH long rental in the family-friendly, yet hip neighborhood of Puertochico.
Cost: $600 USD, or $20 per night.
Nice!
Our unit was simple with a kitchen and semi-separated bedroom with a bathroom, but it served our needs perfectly.
Spain is Totally Our Jam, Man!
You probably already know that we LOOOOOOOOVE Spain if you follow us on Instagram or Pinterest, read our blogs, or watch our YouTube Channel.
In fact, we considered immigrating to Spain in our initial travel plans, but decided to travel the world instead. There is a very long story to share about this decision, but that’s a whole other blog entirely!
Our First Two Weeks in Santander
Weather.com called it an “Atlantic Disturbance” – we just called it WET!
Even locals were bummed with the weather our first two weeks, but we found ways to explore in spite of Mother Nature.
The beaches here are really nice, even in the fall, and the surfing community is very active.
We totally suggest walking over to Playa Piquío to watch the surfers – especially on days with rough seas! When we were there the police had closed a sidewalk along Ave. Manuel García Lago (north side of the beach) because the waves were crashing up onto the walkway. Pedestrians were forbidden to pass, but if you had a surfboard in your hand you were good to go!
We watched the surfers wait for the wave to crash, then jump into the water – board in hand – from the walkway, landing on the backside of the wave.
These guys were bold – and a little crazy!
What To Do In Santander
This depends on the time of year that you come. Summer time: you’ll likely be catching some rays on the beach…
But…
If you come in the Autumn (like we did) or the winter, and you left your wetsuit at home, here are some ideas:
1. Take a Stroll
Santander is a great place for a leisurely paseo that is punctuated by tapas and beverages.
The bay was one of our favorite areas to walk around and explore.
Let me set the scene: The mountains surrounding the bay are covered in gorgeous snow and the air is clean and brisk, but an ambitious swimmer glides past us just a few meters from the concrete walkway.
A group of ladies struggle to get just the right selfie, so Raychelle walks over to assist. After a mini photo shoot we too take a few of our own – it’s a gorgeous day. Here the Los Raqueros statues are posed as if they too will join the swimmer from earlier and dive into the chilly harbor.
The architecture of the Santander Bank building – complete with pass thru archway – is beautifully juxtaposed against the stunning and ultra-modern Centro Botín.
This part of town is all about people watching, shopping, and tapas.
2. I’m on a Boat!
Boy, are we suckers for a boat ride! Santander has a ferry company called Los Reginas that services points throughout the bay that caters to tourists and commuters alike.
We took a ride that went southeast across the bay making stops at Pedreña and Somo. The boat was two stories with an enclosed water-level story and an open-air top deck. We sat up top (of course), so we could easily view the snow covered peaks surrounding Santander, and enjoy the 50 minute round trip.
It was fun and really cheap. €10 for both of us.
If you want an inexpensive way to get a beautiful skyline view and just be out on the water – this the way to do it!
3. Overlook from Centro Botín
The Centro Botín is a beautiful modern museum located in the heart of the city. We didn’t go into the museum, but on top of it is one of the best views of the city with a great view of the skyline and the harbor. When you get to the museum, you will see stairs and an elevator. Take either one to the top and take in the gorgeous view. Don’t forget your camera.
Oh, and did I mention it’s FREE?
4. Eat, and Drink
Food and drink is a big part of the adventure when we travel to a new place. We love trying it all and in Santander we found the tapas to be simple, cheap (often a small one free with a drink), and delicious.
Favorites: Anything on top of a small piece of bread! Jamón is popular, and definitely worth trying. We were surprised by how much we liked bacalao (cod) that takes many forms – our favorite being a delicious spreadable paste on, you guessed it, bread.
Try the white wines of Cantabria and the surrounding areas. Crisp, fantastic minerality, and just a touch of butteriness. Think – a tame New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc meets a Chardonnay.
The Spanish love their wine, but beer is ubiquitous. We tend to like Alhambra the best of the light beers, but prefer Estrella Galicia, if available. Or go to SMACH Brewing for the tastiest craft beer in Santander!
Brewery Alert!
Craft beer is one of our favorite things and Spain has virtually ZERO craft breweries.
Operative word…virtually.
Whenever we travel we always do a Google Maps search for “breweries”, “wineries”, and “distilleries” in the surrounding areas. We enjoy visiting these establishments because, well, it’s fun (duh!) and it’s a great way to understand a given culture’s spin on fermented beverages and more often than not we find ourselves steeped in history and culture, too.
Pun intended!
Santander’s first and only craft brewery is called SMACH Fábrica de Cerveza, or simply “SMACH”. It’s pronounced just like that song from 2006 by Akon… “Smack That”
‘memba dat?!?
Where is it…
Hidden in an industrial park just on the other side of Santander Airport’s fence, SMACH could easily be passed by if it weren’t for its sign. It looks like a warehouse from the outside, but once you enter you’ll see the vats used in the brewing process. Interestingly, you’ll also see stadium style seating made of wood – bleachers for events that take place in the brewery.
The space is clean and skylights illuminate the room. On rainy days (common in Santander) the roof provides a relaxing soundtrack, too.
For only €5 per person at SMACH, you’ll get a full brewery tour and 4 unique half-bottle pours, which showcase the four beers currently in production. We liked the Smach IPA and the Double SMACH best as both were very balanced with lightly to semi-aggressive hop undertones. The other two offerings, a brown ale and a pale ale were very tasty as well.
Who owns it….
Luis Giménez Escalante is the owner and head brewer of SMACH and was happy to answer our questions. He discussed his passion for craft beer and his desire to share those flavors with the Spanish public.
Just as in the United States before the Craft Beer Revolution (circa 1999 – today), in Spain today there are just a few major players in the market.
Throughout the country, you’ll see ubiquitous brands such as San Miguel, Estrella, Mahou, Cruzcampo, and Alhambra in supermarkets and in bars throughout Spain.
These brands dominate the market and would be akin to the pervasiveness of Bud Light, Miller Lite, and Coors Light in the US market twenty years ago.
Craft beer represents less than 1% of total beer sales in Spain today; however, with double digit annual growth it seems as though Spaniards are excited to rediscover beer. Great beer.
Luis faces the challenges of educating the city of Santander about craft beer, and he is competing for space in a market dominated by Spanish beer giants. We think that his optimism, tenacity, and passion for beer will continue to bring him success and that SMACH will really take off in the coming years!
Pro Tip: SMACH is right beside the airport! If you’re flying in or out of Santander consider hitting the brewery as your first or (and!) last stop in town. Just be sure to check the website for the somewhat limited hours of operation.
To learn more about SMACH and schedule your tasting tour check out their website
Don’t have time for a tour? No sweat! SMACH sells bottles by the case at great prices – why not stock up the fridge in your hotel or Airbnb!?!
Our Favorite Restaurants and Bars in Santander:
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Bar Tapas 53
This bar happened to be very close to our Airbnb, but we would have walked to come here. It was our favorite place with a fun vibe, indoor and outdoor seating, and a lot of great people watching. For €1.60/glass, they also happened to serve our favorite cheap red wine in the city.
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Taxco Tacos y Chelas
After traveling for several months with no Mexican food we were excited for this! We tried the quesadillas and they were very good. The bartender was also super sweet and didn’t kick us out when we came in the door soaking wet from the downpour outside and sat dripping at the bar.
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Bar Popi
A good-ole-boys joint where the bartender just starts pouring a drink as soon as he sees a regular walk through the door – a tight bunch, but don’t worry, you’ll feel welcome. The only challenge is getting there during their weird and very limited hours! Potato chips and something deep fried is served with every drink.
We ordered a white wine and a delicious vermouth for €2.28 and some complimentary snacks. Fantastic people watching!
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Bodega San Fermin
Want a hole in the wall full of locals? This is it. Football WILL be on the tv and everyone WILL be drinking a “secret” house wine that is €0.85 and is delicious. We had to ask about what everyone was drinking though, because if you are from out of town you don’t get the house wine.
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Quebec
We’re partial to the Puertochico neighborhood, but if you want to check out downtown Santander where all the name brand shopping stores line the street, we recommend this restaurant, and no, it’s not Canadian-themed at all.
I had an AWESOME Spanish tortilla (basically an upside down quiche with no pie crust and filled with gooey scalloped potatoes), but this one had an ingredient I had been REALLY excited to try: baby eels (angulas).
While they look like something you don’t want to eat, they are very tasty. There are also other less adventurous, yet equally tasty offerings to be had.
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Bar Restaurante La Nuncia
Looking to get some fresh air? Take a walk (it’s a really pretty stroll), bicycle ride, or a scenic drive just moments north of Santander to the La Pereda neighborhood where you’ll find Bar Restaurante La Nuncia.
Known simply as La Nuncia, you’ll see pictures of the owner’s abuela who opened the place in 1914.
Not only is the bar over 100 years old, so is the recipe for the house vermouth which is poured from a wooden cask. Deeeeelicious! Also, our ham, bacon, and egg sandwich was on point. Great place to enjoy a drink and a bite, chat with the locals, and have a cool view of the city and the sea.
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Bodegas Puertochio
The WiFi went out in our apartment one morning and we needed to get some work done, so we wandered downtown. Lucky for us, we ended up finding one of our favorite places. It’s a great place for a nice lunch or dinner or just a cup of coffee. We had coffee, tapas, and the owner let us try a delicious soup (on the house). If you are downtown, this is a good place to stop in and relax for a bit.
Bilbao
In order to get to Santander, we flew into Bilbao, but we missed the last bus of the day going to Santander (where our Airbnb was located) because our flight was delayed.
Bummer!
But, something fun happened as a result. We got to rent a Fiat 500! I have an unhealthy obsession with tiny cars and this sweet little piece of metal (and plastic!) made me smile wide.
The car rental allowed us to get to Santander and drop our stuff off at the AirBnb, but a couple days later we took the little car back to the airport at Bilbao.
Pro Tip: Parking in Santander is a nightmare. We spent way more of our life than we want to admit, driving around looking for parking within a 2 mile radius of our Airbnb. Santander is very walkable and the public transportation is really good, so don’t rent a car unless you REALLY need one!
Wandering Around
–Which in our opinion is a great way to experience a city.
So, since we were already in Bilbao returning our car, we decided to spend a day exploring. From the Bilbao Airport (Bilboko Aireportua) it was a short 20 minute bus ride to downtown and the bus ride ended at the terminal by San Mamés Stadium.
Getting some pictures along the river in front of the Guggenheim is virtually mandatory, so we knew we would eventually end up there later in the day. However, we didn’t do much research besides that.
So we picked a street to walk along to examine a cross section of Bilbao. Our route was roughly a straight line through the city from San Mamés Stadium to Palacio de Deportes Bilbao Arena.
As we walked, we went through several nodes of diversity. A typically Spanish area, an area with predominantly Asian residents, a neighborhood with an African majority, and finally ended up in an area dominated by hipsters.
Brewery Alert!
One of our favorite travel blogs is Vagabrothers. Alex and Marko are charismatic brothers who travel the world and make beautiful films of their adventures.
We were always interested in Spain, and Northern Spain, specifically. However, after watching their series about the Basque Country and other regions of Northern Spain we were captivated by the region.
The Vagabrothers stopped at a brewery in Bilbao while they visited, so we too decided to look it up and offer up a “cheers” to them for inspiring us. The establishment is called Café Bihotz. Their beers are delicious and varied including IPAs, stouts, and even some sour beers.
Beer was the only thing on the menu for us, but we saw some awesome coffees and food coming out of the kitchen, too. If you like craft beer, it is worth a stop and a pint.
Stopping for an occasional coffee, beer, or tapas along the way we made it to the Palacio de Deportes Bilbao Arena and decided to make our way to the really nice walkway along the Estuary.
River Walk
Bilbao has an awesome walkway along its estuary. The estuary is more like a river and it feels like a river walk. There are a lot of places to grab some pintxos or drinks while you leisurely stroll. The walking path is full of benches where you can sit and relax, statues and monuments to look at, and beautiful old buildings on either side.
Soon we saw the handsome Puente de La Salve bridge and the Guggenheim positioned at its base. These structures are very interesting and are worth a visit to see. We didn’t go inside due to time constraints, but entrance is €13 if you’re so inclined.
Next we walked back towards the bus station, but opted to go back in towards city center rather than continuing along the estuary.
And I’m glad we did! Sometimes during travel you have a fantastic culinary experience that is totally unexpected. Plaza Campuzano tavern was such a place.
There could be many other establishments in Bilbao that put out such great offerings, not sure, but regardless, we found one!
Tapas for days!
We enjoyed several delicious tapas and chatted with the bartender. Raychelle speaks Spanish pretty well so we were able to have a fairly in depth conversation with him about the food, growing up in Bilbao, and his love of football (soccer)!
Everything from anchovies, to octopus, to patê, briny olives, delicious wines, and great conversation were enjoyed.
Towards the last few bites of food our bartender said “Have you ever tried a Kalimotxo?”. We both looked at each other and asked him to repeat this curious word. He proceeded to say it slowly, write it down and explain it.
Equal parts red wine and Coca-Cola!
We were concerned – sounded crazy! But, weirdly, it was very tasty.
Great experience! €11.35 out the door – now that’s cheap fun!
Gijón
Asturias has been called the natural paradise of Spain and I can see the logic behind that claim. Even within the city limits of Gijón, the waves beautifully lap against the shore with the misty mountains to the south. We enjoyed brief periods of full sun between rain clouds, but had a blast.
Our friend Steve, from back home in the United States, joined us for a weekend in Gijón. We got an Airbnb on the east side of the Gijón Centro neighborhood and were primed for a weekend of enjoying this small but wonderful city.
It was really interesting visiting Gijón after spending two weeks in Santander. There are similarities and differences, like both cities have a harbor, but only Santander has a bay. Santander has a park and a palace on their peninsula, whereas in Gijón, the Cimavilla neighborhood houses lots of hipster hangs and cider joints.
Spanish Cider
Speaking of cider, this is a HUGE difference. In Santander, you can get cider from a supermarket and likely if you ask for it at a bar, but in Asturias cider is a RELIGION!
Ok, so what is cider and why’s it such a big deal?
Cider is made from apples – apple cider – and it’s not like what you get from the store. First, it’s alcoholic and most ciders I saw here were in the 4.5% – 5.5% range. Second, it’s tart, not sweet, with a bit of funk to it. If you’re familiar with sour beers – beers that are funky due to the use of wild yeast strains or bacteria in the brewing process – you’ll notice some, not all, but some of the ciders have this funk. Some people (like Raychelle and I) like this, others don’t. Most ciders, however, are just tart…and delicious.
Pouring the cider properly is an art, developed over lots of years and practice. We saw many serious-looking servers lift cider bottles high above their head, pour the cider (without looking) into a glass held at their knees. It was pretty incredible – and in fact does make the cider taste better. The basic concept here is the higher the pour, the more air is introduced into the cider, thus enhancing the flavor. Some places have containers to catch the splatter of cider, others just have really sticky floors.
Burgos
Sadly, we said goodbye to our month long Airbnb in Santander and hopped on an ALSA bus down to Burgos. The bus was comfortable, modern with free WiFi and room for personal items overhead. Windy hilly rides made the ride a bit slow, but it was gorgeous as we traversed the coastal mountains on the way to Burgos.
Some of the towns we passed through looked really old, having several multi-family homes clustered around a Catholic church with a tall steeple. Each town had a small restaurant or bar, but not much else.
We saw the lush, green, mountainous landscape laden with tall trees turn to hilly land with mesas, craggy rocks, and scrubby short vegetation. Agriculture happens in both domains but the look is totally different.
The bus station in Burgos is located just south of the city center, and is only a 10 minute walk to Burgos Cathedral and the Plaza Mayor.
Rain Again…
We arrived on a (wait for it……..) rainy Saturday in late November. Walking north to the Plaza Mayor to grab a drink before we could check into our Airbnb, we followed our ears to what sounded like a party.
Outside of Los Toneles Bar Parrilla, or ‘Los Toneles’ for short, the locals weren’t letting the rain stop them from having a great time – they were hanging outside of the bar playing classical acoustic guitars, singing local songs, and gathering quite the crowd.
The impromptu concert lasted about a half hour after we arrived and we were loving the energy.
They weren’t playing for money, but were just having fun and bar hopping and avoiding the rain. Seeing this, we knew our time in Burgos would be fun!
The Streets Were Packed!
After walking to our Airbnb located by the Castle of Burgos to drop our bags, we headed back out looking for some tapas and drinks.
We found plenty of both and the streets were crowded!
A Christmas Market was set up in the shadow of the Cathedral and vino caliente (mulled wine, or warmed wine flavored with cinnamon sticks) was available for €1.50.
Yep, we’ll take a couple of those!
Wandering the streets we stopped in a ton of great places – there are so many to choose from.
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Restaurante Meson Los Herrero
There isn’t a lot I can say about this place because you just HAVE to go! The street it’s on (as well as the next 2 recommendations) is a little tricky to find as it’s just a little alley off of the main plaza, but trying to find it will be worth it – trust me. La morcilla de Burgos (blood sausage with rice on a piece of bread and topped with a fried egg), a local pintxo, was fantastic here as well as all of the other tapas. Pricing was extremely reasonable for both food and drinks.
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Casa Pancho
……is located across the alley from Restaurante Meson Los Herreros. They are both pretty similar with a few variations – you will have to try them both to pick your favorite.
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El Pez de San Lorenzo
If you want excellent vermouth go here, and as icing on the cake.. it is located just up the street from the two tapas places listed above. Sounds like a night of fun if you ask me! The vermouth here is a secret recipe that the bartender would not give up. They bottle their vermouth – so if you love it like we did, you can buy a bottle to take home. Some light grocery offerings – including delicious cured meats and cheeses – are available to purchase to eat there or later.
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Vermutería Victoria
Our second favorite homemade vermouth can be found here. They serve their vermouth with an olive and they have a great selection of tapas. It is located just off the cathedral plaza, so after some sight-seeing, Christmas market shopping, or people watching – stopping here is a great idea.
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Cervecería Morito
Ready for something more than tapas? This place has delicious food and an awesome staff. Keep in mind it is Cash only and they have limited hours.
Burgos is more than just tapas and drinks
If you are looking for a great view of the city, the walk up to and around the Castle (Castillo de Burgos) is definitely worth it. It is FREE to enter and you have a birds-eye view of the entire city and if you are into history, there are remains here that are over 1000 years old.
The Cathedral is also extremely beautiful. We didn’t go inside, but tours are available if it is something you are interested in doing.
Finally, if you are looking for a nice stroll, there is a tree-lined path that follows Río Arlanzón around the old city. Grab an ice cream or a coffee and just enjoy the beautiful city.
San Sebastián-Donostia
It was Beckoning – we heeded the call! Just so happens, we saved the best for last.
There is a place in the far north of Spain that is magical. It’s known as San Sebastián in Castilian Spanish, or Donostia in its native tongue of Euskara (or Basque).
The bus ride from Burgos to San Sebastián was smooth and comfy.
We stopped at various cities on the way up and it was interesting to see the vegetation and weather change on the way north from the dry scrubby interior to the lush green coast.
Once out of the bus station, the River Urumea separates the east and west sides of town. It was early December when we visited and the river was lined with light-draped stalls of a Christmas Market selling local hand-made gifts and treats.
If that doesn’t get you in the holiday spirit, then we don’t know what does!
Let’s Get Out Of Here
After cooping ourselves up in our Airbnb to catch up on some work for a day, we were stir-crazy so we started planning a big day of walking around the city.
We began walking across the bridge to Old Town and continued walking around the peninsula until Monte Urgull and the Mota Castle sat high above us.
The steep walk up to the top rewards visitors with 360 degree views of the sea, beaches, and city. Be sure to pack some water and a snack.
During summer months a bar is open and would be a very welcome sight after the climb.
On the way up, you’ll be greeted by cats loudly encouraging you to feed them. (We saw a local couple with a backpack who we assume come up consistently to feed the cats – pretty sweet.)
The Mota Castle has several exhibits and short films to enjoy that discuss the history of the Castle and San Sebastián. Keep walking through the museum until you see the stairs, this takes you out to one of the best overlooks in the city and to the iconic statue of Jesus looking out towards the city.
Wrapping up this fairly athletic climb and descent we were HUNGRY!
Let’s be honest, we came for the food…
Here are our delicious and budget friendly recommendations. Side note: San Sebastián is world renowned for its culinary scene. We stuck with tapas this trip (as we were trying not to spend a ton of money), so none of our recommendations are for the man, many amazing restaurants that fill this city.
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Bar Roberto
This is definitely a hole-in-the wall that holds about 10 people – making it very cozy. The tapas are pretty basic tapas but the highlight is the yummy vermouth and basque cider. Our bartender was really friendly and let us try some of the local spirits, while making us feel right at home. If you want an authentic Spanish bar vibe – make a quick pit stop here.
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Nam Restaurante Gros
The lunch prices here are incredible and the food was very good. For $8 we had ham and cheese croquetas, two Spanish omelet variations, morcilla, and a glass of wine each. It also happens to be 2 blocks from the beach, so after you are done filling up, you can stroll and watch the surfers on the beautiful beach front path.
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Bar Antzara
Again, we needed WiFi, so we wandered in this place and were more than pleasantly surprised. We had a beer each and 3 or 4 tapas $7. The place was busy with the lunch crowd and rightfully so. Food and staff were great.
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Bar Txepetxa
Do you like sardines?? Raychelle didn’t until we tried these. This bar is known for sardine tapas and they were awesome. Be sure to get one with yummy roe! If sardines really aren’t your thing, that’s okay, they have other options – but please at least try it.
I am full, now what?
Walking along the promenade by the large Ferris wheel, we noticed the city really started to come alive. The long coastal path is spectacular with a view of the sea, the castle, the promenade, and the many people just hanging out and enjoying the day.
On the beach, dogs were playing with each other as their humans mingled. A gentleman wrote poetry in the sand using a stick which was easily read from the walkway.
Swimmers glided through the cold water and some beach goers walked ankle-deep in the water on a stroll. Not overly interesting typically – but on this day you could see your breath it was so cold. Quite a tolerance to the cold water – let’s just say we didn’t get in the water!
Getting to the west side of the city we decided on another tapas break before heading back.
Strolling by the Miramar Palace, we took in the view and learned of its past. It was built in 1893 and was the summer home of the Queen of Spain. The gardens around the palace are definitely a highlight and in the summer are probably breathtaking.
Good Shepherd of San Sebastian Cathedral was beautiful along with the quaint plaza that sits in front of it. . This is a common area for bus routes and it was a busy pedestrian zone.
Plaza Gipuzkoa
This was a surprise highlight on our walk – as we did very little research before we started walking through the city.
The city had set up a nativity scene in the plaza, which normally would not catch our attention, but this one had music, animated characters, and was very impressive. Probably over 200 figurines depicting various stories of the birth of Christ. Something to see if you are there around Christmas time, for sure.
For the science buffs, be sure to check out the grotto. You’ll find a meteorological monument containing super cool (we’re nerdy) analog gauges for atmospheric humidity, a globe, phases of the moon, constellations, etc – worth a visit.
Then, venturing back into Old Town we had some more Basque cider and played a round of our favorite card game – Spite and Malice.
Wrapping up the day, we walked out to the Paloma de La Paz art installation. TONS of surfers were finding waves and it was fun to watch them with the sun setting in the background.
Back to the Airbnb to rest up for an 11 hour bus ride to our next adventure – in Paris!
Thank you Northern Spain for inspiring our travel dreams and exceeding our expectations… Cheers until next time 🙂
If you want to read about our time in Southern Spain, check out our blog post here!
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